This is the result of my almost 4 years of very intensive scratching game, during which I changed the types of disks, levers, insert types, preamps and compared the results obtained.
These were m.in top models are Micro Seiki, Luxman, Dual, Project, Pioneer, Sony, Technics, Thorens and Lenco.
I will try to explain the 2 main factors that we should consider when choosing.
Influence of the drive type on the player’s sound
So, what types of disks do we have?:
- Idler np (Lenco, Garrard, Thorens, Braun)
- Paskowy (Project, Rega, Dual, Thorens, Linn)
- Direct drive (Technics, Pioneer, modern audio equipment)
- Turntables with a mass loader (Luxman PD350, Scheu, Verdier, Sikora) play somewhat differently, and turntables with a soft suspension also play differently.




How does the drive type affect the sound?
- Idler-More Energy, More bass, Bigger stage, most stereotypical vinyl sound
- Direct drive – more technical, analytical sound, greater accuracy, playing closer to the stereotypical CD
- A band is something in between, smoother, and more musical.
Of course, these are generalizations, meaning most of these types of discs will play this way. Another variable is the way resonances are suppressed – the mass loader bands play slightly differently, and the bands on soft suspensions play differently.
Fitting the insole on your hand
There are also a lot of theories here, but simplifying:
The key parameter is ‘compilation’, hence the insertion vulnerability.
Light hands (say 8-12 g effective weight) should play with insoles that are not so much light as highly susceptible-above 15cu compliance (e.g. AT, Grado, Ortofon)
Medium hands (12-18 g effective weight) will play correctly with insoles, both fairly high-inclined and medium-inclined, and sometimes even stiffer ones. Most of these hands will play correctly with MC inserts.
Heavy hands (over 18 g effective weight) are designed for MC inserts, which are considered the best in the audio world. They will play correctly with solid inserts (Ikeda, Denon 103R, Koetsu, etc.)
Player Sound
So, my dears, if you are hoping to read some review about the player, or the opinion of someone on the network, which will allow you to choose a ‘good’ sounding player or a ‘better’ sounding player.
The truth is, it’s unrealistic.
The vinyl track is so complex and there are so many addictions affecting the game… that this is actually impossible.
The sound is affected by the type of drive, the type of lever (material, bearing method), the folding of the lever with the insert, the insert itself, and the folding of the insert with the preamp.
A lot of variables, isn’t it? Given the aforementioned sound of a vinyl track, you can shape it almost indefinitely-by listing just one element.
Resume:
Thus, the conclusion suggests itself as if by itself:
A turntable with a light lever (whether vintage or new) for good morning actually restricts us to mm inserts.
Is it bad?
No, if we mainly care about the game climate, the appearance of the player, then we can improve the sound with a preamp and better / other mm-ear headphones.
While with a budget of 1500-2000zl for an insert, you should already enter the MC and then consider, for example, selling our first player, because the investment will no longer be translated into their quality.
However, keep in mind that, for example, a Direct Drive combined with a Shibata sander liner or Microline (detailed, sharper) can sound closer to the archetypal CD than the vinyl we’ve been dreaming of.
Even cheaper elliptical or spherical grinders(such as the Denon 103R) can provide higher resolution and clarity in MC inserts.
Therefore, m.in you should be interested in vintage turntables-there, with a much smaller budget, we will get a hand that will allow us to play with a much better price-performance ratio.
But this is already material for a separate text.
Looking for a high-quality turntable or a good liner? Write… we’ll figure something out…